Saturday 26 September 2009

The Tryfan challenge

For all nature loving adrenaline junkies and thrill seekers out there consider a trip to Snowdonia. Or more specifically, a trip up the explosion of rocks that are Tryfan and the adjacent Glyders. These mountains are often overlooked in favour of neighbouring Snowdon but are a very rewarding alternative to the famous peak, offering climbs up rock faces and scrambles up steep scree slopes amid some of the most challenging terrain in Britain. And if that’s not enough, tradition dictates that the hardiest of souls take a death-defying leap across two column-like rocks that adorn the tiny summit of Tryfan.

Bob and I spent last weekend in the Welsh mountains, fuelled by a desire to detox and have 48 hours in the countryside with only the most essential items. It takes about 4 1/2 hours from London and it’s not until you get onto the A5 past Shrewsbury that the route becomes interesting. From Llangollen it begins to wind through rolling forest, past low lying hills and picturesque Welsh villages to Betws-y-coed, famous for its old iron bridge and ‘ugly house’, and gateway to the mountains.

On the Sunday, under cloudless skies and tingling with a mix of adventure and fantasy of Tolkienian proportions, we parked up at the foot of Tryfan at the east end of lake Llyn Ogwen that lines the valley floor (according to legend the final resting place of King Arthur’s Excalibur) between the Glyders and the Carneddau range. There is no gentle introduction to Tryfan. From the lay-by it’s a thigh burning two hour climb to the peak. The start is steep but with a defined route; after a while this changes to a mix of scree, sheer rock and thicket tufts with no obvious path. There are many ways to the top and all of them will have nerve jangling moments involving thin ledges, scrambling and rock climbing.

The summit is a small expanse of craggy rock that’s only big enough for a few groups of walkers at a time. Its main attractions are ‘Adam and Eve’, two boulders that stand three metres high and about a metre apart, visible from the valley floor where they look like human figures. It’s common to see brave souls jump from one to the other to gain the ‘freedom of Tryfan’, although I never mustered the courage to get that honour.

Tryfan sticks into the sky like a jagged dome. From the A5 past Llyn Ogwen it stood noble and sublime in the perfect weather we had that day, separated from the ‘bristling ridge’ at the start of the Glyders by the Bwlch Tryfan pass. But the mountain has been labelled one of the most challenging walks in mainland Britain and has claimed several lives over the last few years, most recently in April this year. Although this is a great and thrilling climb, walkers beware: treat Tryfan with caution and the utmost respect.

3 comments:

  1. Know the area but never explored Tryfan - wish I had now. Not sure if I could manage the climb but would love to explore. Where are you going to climb next?

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  2. My Grandmother used to travel from London to visit Betws-y-coed in the 20s and 30s, this is a real blast from the past!

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